Boot or shoe



(No Model.) l 2 sheets-sheet 1. L. 1.l NORMAN.

BOOT ORSHOE. Y NO'. 300,001.l Patented June l0, 18.84.

No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

L. F. NORMAN.

3001011 SHOE.

Patevn/te/dlllne l0, 1884.

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N. PETERS. Pholo-Lxlhugnpher. washingmn. D C.

LAVRENCE, NORMAN, OF

' Fries.

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

BOOT ORSHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 300,001, dated June l0, 1884. Y

` Application filed February 18, 1&84. i (No modul.)

To a/ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, LAwRENoE F. NORMAN, of Boston, county of Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Boots or Shoes, of which the following de-` scription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates to that class of boot and shoe in which the edge of the upper is turned outwardly, and, as herein shown, the said outwardly-turned edge is stitched down between awelt and an outer sole. This class of boot andshoe has been customarily lasted by drawing the edges of the upper by'pinchers over upon an inner solelaid upon the bot-` tom of a last, and the edge of the upper has then been nailed to the inner sole, and there-f after the upper, held near the edge of the solei part of the last by a suitable clamp, hasbeen: turned outwardly and hammered down, and while held by the said clamp the said upper and an outer sole, applied to the inner sole by two or more lasting-nails, have been stitched. together in a sole-sewing machine. In my eX- periments to obviate the employment of the clamp referred to I discovered that a strong thread, cord, or wire might be employed tol support or form a flexible backing for the outturned edge of the upper, and this backing forms one feature of my present invention. In my improved shoe the filling-sole and welt are formed from a single piece of leather, called the filling-piece, 7 and tofacilitate making and to cheapen the cost of production of inyy improved shoe I have tacked the fillingpiece to the inner face of the piece of leather which is to form the outer sole by tacks, the heads of which are at the upper side of the filling-piece or neXt the inner sole, and then, preferably by a rounding and channeling machine, the filling-piece and outer sole are cut into shape, and the outer sole is channeled, and thereafter the filling-piece is cut to form at or from its margin a welt, under and between which and the outer sole the outturned edge ofthe upper is passed to be stitched. The inner under edge of the welt will preferably be beveled.

Figure 1 represents part of a shoe made in accordance with my invention, the same being in condition to secure the filling-sole, welt, and

outer sole; Fig. 2, a side elevation of Fig. l, Fig. 3, a cross-section of the completed shoe along the dotted line :l: x, Fig. 5. Fig. 4 is a partial side elevation of a shoe containing my invention, showing the attached filling-sole, welt, and outer sole drawn upon the upper, prepared as in Fig. l, the dotted lines showing the parts as first applied preparatory to bringing them into their full-line positions. Fig. 5 shows the outerA sole thrown down against the other part-s and secured in place; and Fig. Gis an inner side view of the attached filling-sole, welt, and outer sole, the fillingpiece being shown as slitted to form a llingsole and welt, as will be described.

The edgesof the inner sole, b, outermost from the last are shouldered or beveled about the fore part, as at b2, to form a support for the upper inside the iieXible backing d. The

upper a, of any usual .shape or material, is drawn over the lastal, having the inner sole,

'1), laid upon its bottom, and the edges of the upper about the shank are fastened to the inner sole by suitable short tacks,.while the edges of the upper, drawn over the fore part of the inner sole, are attached thereto only temporarily by usual tacks. The upper will then be slit, as at a3, so that. the same may be turned outward, and the backing d, preferably a strong waxed thread, (but it may be a wire or oord,) is run through a hole or slit inthe upper between the edges of its fore part and the edges of the inner sole, and so laid about the upper substantially within the marginal edge of the inner sole, and preferably just opposite or in line with the shoulder or bevel b of the inner sole, the ends of the said backing will be suitably fastened or secured, preferably to the inner sole, the attachment being, as herein shown, by tacks d3 or otherwise. This done, the lasting-tacks referred to are removed; The edges of the upper are lifted from the inner sole and turned outwardly therefrom over the backing d, as in Fig. l, the latter forming a guide about which the upper is folded and subsequently pounded down. The backing d having been applied, and the edge of the upper having been attached to the inner sole at the shank and about the heel, all as usual, the other parts of the shoe (shown partially in Fig. 6) may be applied.

In Fig. 6, e represents an outer sole, or a sole entirely external to the upper; j', an attached shank-piece of usual construction, and m2 ma respectively represents the welt and the filling-sole, herein shown as composed of one and the same piece of leather, such piece of leather, before it was cut to form the slot m', being herein called the filling-piece. rIhis iilling-piece, when applied to the outer sole, was connected to it, as herein shown, by tacks g g driven through the same and into the outer sole from its inner side, thus obviatingthe possibility of the said tacks subsequently penetrating the inner sole, and this filling-piece, when so applied to the piece of leather to form the outer sole, was sufficiently wide to be cut into shape simultaneously with the piece of leather to form the outer sole, the said two pieces of leather being cut or brought into sole shape, preferably in a rounding` and channeling machine.

`After having been cut into sole shape, the parts represented in Fig. 6 are molded as usual, and then the filling-piece referred to as attached to the outer sole is slitted at m', to form the filling-sole mi and welt m2, the slit so 'produced serving for the reception of the outturned edges of the upper, substantially as in United States Patent N o. 292,503, heretofore granted to me. The inner edge of the welt so formed will preferably be beveled next the outer sole, so that its thin edgemay overlap the flexible backing d.

With the parts prepared as shown in Figs. 1 and 6, the outer` sole,with its attached welt, will be applied to the upper, as-represented by the dotted lines, Fig. 4, and will then be drawn forward into the full-line position, Fig. 4, the Welt being sprung into the space occupied and held open by the backing d, as shown fully in the said figure, and the outer sole is then brought into the position Fig. 5, and the latter, the welt, and the outturned edges-of the upper about the fore part of the shoe are united, preferably by thread, constituting'a seam, as at n,- but at the shank,where the edge ofthe upper is turned inwardly, I prefer to use driven fastenings, asV at o, but may, lif desired, use thread in usual manner. Reducing the edge of the inner sole and shouldering or beveling it enables the upper and the backing d and the inner edge of the welt to pass within the edge of the inner sole, the edge of the inner sole constituting a feather-edge, as in hand-welted work.

It is obvious that I might apply a tap-sole to sole e, or apply a half or tap sole between the sole e and the filling-sole or the inner sole. So, in the claimsto be hereinafterpresented, by the term sole e I intend to cover any sole externally applied to the upper.

I claim- 1. The sole e and its attached fillingsole and welt, separated by a slit, m, for the reception of the upper, substantially as described.

2. The upper having its edge'at its fore part turned outward, and the inner sole, combined with the backing cl, extended about the out- 7o turned upperbetween its edge and the edge of the inner sole, to hold the upper about the inner sole, substantially as described.

3. The herein-described method of confining the outturned upper in place upon the inner 7 5 sole, which consists in applying a llexible backing to the said' upper between its edge and the edge of the inner sole, substantially as described.

Intestimony whereof I havesigned my name 8o to this specieation in the'presence of two subscribing witnesses.

LAWRENCE F. NORMAN.

Witnesses:

NV. H. SIGsToN, B. J. NoYEs. 

